A “plate” of Bo.Lan’s stir-fried squid with cha-kram

A "plate" of Bo.Lan's stir-fried squid with cha-kram.

With both chefs at Bo.lan coming from the original Nahm restaurant in London, the creative flair on offer here matches Bangkok’s best.

Thai design elements — woven rice trays hang down from the ceiling, fish ornaments made from palm leaves to hold the napkins — complement the contemporary decor.

The menu changes quarterly to take advantage of seasonal produce and the chefs adopt a slow food philosophy, ever curious and adventurous with the complex mixture of flavors therein.

The result is a menu whose dishes look and sound unfamiliar, but which have surprisingly familiar tastes.

“Bo.lan Before” (295 baht) is an assortment of bite-sized morsels, each packing a powerful hit of Thai flavor, while “gang muu tapab nahm” (red curry of pork hock, 460 baht) has the pork knuckle practically melting into an authentic curry paste.

Should the two-page menu overwhelm, opt for the all encompassing 11-course “Bo.lan Balance” set menu (1,680 baht per person).

To soak up any sauce lagging on the plate, organic gaba rice is complimentary, while jasmine rice is 30 baht because, as the waitress explains, “jasmine rice costs more for the environment.”

Prices are on par with hotel rates, with à la carte dishes ranging from 210-580 baht, and a glass of Singha beer for 185 baht.

The tom yum standard:  Far too ubiquitous, this dish isn’t even on Bo.Lan’s innovative menu. But judging by the use of herbs and spices in other dishes, expectations for the would’ve-been are high.

42 Soi Pichai Ronnarong Songkram, Soi Sukhumvit 26. Open 6 p.m. till late, Tuesday – Sunday. +66 (0)2260 2962. www.bolan.co.th

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